When you see gear for sale, especially pedals, with someone accepting "reasonable offers" how do you usually gauge that? People seem to oscillate from "not a dollar less" to "half price.
It's well-established that Narciso Yepes, in close collaboration with Jose Ramirez III, came up with the design and specific tuning scheme for the modern 10-string guitar. This all happened around 1961 to 1964, no one seems to know the precise date of the 10-string debut. Even the location of that concert (Madrid, Barcelona, or Berlin) is up for dispute. And again, I am specifically referencing the modern version, and not factoring in Carulli's decacorde and/or other 19th century designs. But what about the modern 8-string? The earliest one I can think of (again speaking of the modern design) was Jose Tomas's Ramirez, built in the late 1960s or early 1970s. Was this designed as a "smaller/simpler 10-string"? And what was the initial "preferred" tuning scheme for the 7th and 8th strings? On my own 8-strings, I've tended toward 7=B and 8=D, a re-entrant sort of tuning, and this is meant for renaissance lute music*. Drew Henderson uses 8=A and 7=D. Paul Galbraith and others throw a real curve ball here, by keeping the "main six" strings in slots 2 to 7, and adding a higher and lower A string to the outermost slots.
I have a standard strat. I have some sustain but I'm looking for more. Does anyone think adding weight to the trem block would increase the sustain? I'm thinking about putting stick-weights on it but don't want to mess anything up.
I wonder if this is a lap or pedal steel guitar that the soloist plays?:
On other records of this artist the soloist is posing with lap steel, so possibly it could be that. But I am not sure, I am totally a beginner in steel guitars.
Sometimes the solo consist of simple melodic patterns lacking slides, like from 2:58 to 3:20
Does the soloist play it on the steel guitar, too?
If someone is an expert on these, could he guess the tuning?
I didn't find the right solution from the internet.
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